- Europe is a very diverse continent; it is internally diverse, form a historical perspective, as it includes a plethora of ethno-linguistic groups, and has been the cradle of many religious movements. Europe is also extremely diverse as a result of immigration during the post-World War II era, which continues today, despite efforts to curb it. This diversity is beautiful, and I have a difficult time accepting statements as to the more homogenous nature of European societies: this is no longer applicable. Having said that, the image European media projects is a lot less diverse than the societies it ought to reflect. For example, take an airline like Lufthansa: in their advertisements, it is rare to see a non-aryan looking face, although their staff and your average German citizen walking down the street in Frankfurt or Berlin is far more likely to be of mixed or Turkish, or African (and so on) descent than Lufthansa's promotional campaign would have you guess. So why not put the different faces of Germany, France (doing better on this point), Italy, Austria, the Netherlands, and others on the front pages of magazines and bring the public's attention to the success stories - and the typical struggles - of the immigrants living there? I hardly think such a project would create a backlash, as it doesn't change policy, only attitudes. Then, in turn, 'integration' policies would be easier to create, accept, and enact.
- French unions need to stop protesting. The inevitability of this set of reforms, in one packaging or another, has to be evident to French citizens. Just across the channel, the British government is introducing a budget that, for better or worse, is quite revolutionary for its epoch, from a fiscal austerity point of view - it is seeking to reduce Britain's debt and in order to do so, is slicing chunks off budgets of various ministries and social services, under the umbrella of reducing overall government spending. There will also be a sooner introduction of the new retirement age, 66 for both men and women, as well as some pension reform. There is a risk of stifling Britain's recovery, but in my personal opinion, I think the UK had always managed to use little to achieve a lot, so I'm holding my fingers crossed for their calculated gamble. So this leaves France, with its retirement age still at 60 and generous pensions, seeming like a spoiled, crying child throwing its final tantrum. Yes, it is easy to understand why the French are so protective of their social welfare benefits and their readiness to spill out into the street is admirable, but there comes a point when reflection has to happen. Is it fair for the British, the Germans, and even the Italians and the Spanish to tighten their belts and to work longer (years) in order to give the French citizens the privilege of holding on to an older system of social benefits no longer viable in the world they live in? Not to mention, the French reforms are timid in comparison to reforms taken on by Spain and Greece (and again, Britain) - but then again, let's reflect on what brought the first tow countries to such a desperate situation? I doubt the French people would like to be seen in the same position in a decade's time.
- The wave of nationalism sweeping through Europe is alarming (to go back to the diversity point made above), and it is not even so much nationalism as it is Islamophobia. There is no reason to be afraid of Islam, of Muslims and especially of terrorism on the home turf. Security services and intelligence agencies will, in sha'allah, do their job, and citizens' vigilance will not be the sole source of protection for Western societies. But the irrational association of Muslim to dangerous or hostile or foreign should end, really, because the new diverse Europe is as much Muslim as it is Christian and atheist, and it is better for that; this will become evident when European governments will stop their obsession with integration, but instead become open to intra-state cultural exchange, fostering an awareness and an understanding of 'foreigners' problems' and by extension of issues facing foreign governments of immigrants' countries of origin - all this will equip the EU citizens to better deal with the challenges of the 21st century.
October 22, 2010
The intellectuals are drinking their coffee at home... Part II
July 14, 2010
The intellectuals are drinking their coffee at home... Part I
March 06, 2010
Cultural Adjustment
Stages...
...Yes, they exist. Stages of in-country adjustment vary from place to place, I’d imagine; but they definitely exist. The first stage is the honeymoon period, when all new things are fascinating and even getting a cab on your own is a joy and an achievement, even though you are being mercilessly ripped off and hardly know where you’re going. Or, to use an analogy I can follow through to the end stages: going into a French cafe, where you know that real French people sit and sip their coffee while discussing politics is unreasonably exciting, and you may even make special plans to live out this experience in a carefully (or randomly) selected cafe, at which point you would order an espresso and enjoy the porcelain cup and plate with two sugar cubes and coffee spoon on the side, served to you by a lanky French waiter who speaks no English. You will be eager to tip - and if you do not know that tipping is not practiced (and the tax is included in the price of the order), you will leave an extra euro on the table - and decide that you simply must come back to this place again. In the worst of cases, due to extraneous unpleasant experiences, you may choose another coffee time mecca to frequent over lunch or on a late afternoon.
This stage slowly and subtly morphs into the adjustment period, called such (by me) due to the apparent need for major adjustments in your lifestyle, attitudes, and even thought processes. This period is hard, and most consider this to be the beginning of culture shock; personally, it is always a welcome time for me, because (speaking from 3 experiences) it is still an enthusiastic moment when I realize that I have learning to do, and I am finally aware of the extent of my novice ways in a foreign society. Almost everything is going wrong or could be going better, but it is still possible to laugh about it, and doing so will buy you valuable time.
During this period, the cafe visits will gradually lose their luster. You will begin to notice that the people in the cafe are not discussing, but arguing about politics, and in addition to being very loud speakers, they are harshly critical of all things; you may begin to fear being criticized by them in their flying spit conversations. To further the point for the female observer, the garcon (waiter) is really not attractive (not compared to the barman in the ‘boite’ (night club) you and your friends/co-workers checked out a few nights ago as a result of boredom) and the owner is not the quaint French monsieur with small town charm, but a shrewd businessman. The coffee itself is actually pricy. By now, you know better than to tip, or even want to tip, because you’ve realized that your money, of which there is a limited amount, is wanted elsewhere. In fact, you begin to wonder why you are paying 1.5 euro for a cup of coffee the size of your thumb, when you could be having an ‘Americano’ that would last all of the half hour you intend to spend in the cafe chatting about the news and where to buy the cheapest groceries.
On the flip side, you don’t really mind the absence of American coffee, because (beware, this is total rationalizing to prevent reality from seeping through the cracks):
1) the idea of sitting down for a coffee with friends is cool - it’s a break from the rut and the fast pace of the day
2) you think you’re drinking less coffee
- you still hope to meet new people, and this is just the way to do it
- the owner of the establishment is starting to recognize you and be friendly
- you have finally established a place that is markedly ‘yours’, and it is a consistent preferred meeting ground for your little group of expats, which may or may not include some nationals
Finally - though this is really only the beginning - things hit rock bottom. But not really...it will still get worse before it gets better. To my knowledge, most of my acquaintances and friends think that they are at the pinnacle (or more accurately, bottom) of the culture shock curve, only to hit the same point two weeks down the road. It’s an ugly time, when nothing seems right, nothing is right, and there really appears to be no end to the madness. When you habitually note to yourself that this ridiculously overpriced 1.5 euro French espresso cup is the size of a thumb (with even less coffee in it), you are dangerously close to sticking your thumb into the coffee cup to prove it is really that small. And when finished (which takes all of two sips), you have an urge to smash the cup against the floor, because, after all, it is porcelain.
Two weeks later, you may also start dumping the two sugar cubes into the coffee, only to prove to yourself that this country is full of absurdities, and then bitterly regretting your rash action as the sweetness will irritate your throat and mouth long afterwards. But you will keep doing it. You may also start ignoring the owner of the establishment, and even go there as little as possible, because your consistency is only making him a profit and causing you angst. And why is there no Starbucks in this town, like in all of the civilized world? Coffee to go has never been as necessary as it is now. Simultaneously, your irrational craving for something gastronomically awful will haunt you on a 24-hour basis. Basically, you will lurk behind the corner by some place reminiscent of a neighborhood McDonald’s, feeling stupid should you even dare to touch the door, but desperately needing a taste - or a feel - of the worst your home culture has to offer. Yes, you start to appreciate the bad; this is an ultimate symptom of culture shock. Reportedly, at this point people turn to alcohol and seek sex with random partners (the likelihood of which increases if you go out and drink), neither of which helps.
One one of those days you will, hopefully, snap. It may involve tears, or it may involve a particularly anticlimactic sexual encounter with a random partner that prods you towards in-depth reflection and self-assessment. Yet at some point, you will stop in at the cafe, letting the stress drip off your shoulders like the rainwater of a stormy afternoon, call or text your expatriate friend and ask him/her to join you for a glass of wine/juice or a cup of coffee. When the waiter comes to take your order and asks you how you’re doing, you will not perkily tell him you’re great, but sigh and say that you’re getting by, little by little, to which he will respond: just like everyone else! And when your friend finally shows up, and you think you’re about to set off on a rant about your misery, he/she will beat you to it, and you will spend the entire afternoon knowledgeably consoling your comrade abroad.
Thankfully, it only gets better from here. You have, at this point, become the regulars of the cafe/restaurant/bar that you initially chose as your watering hole. You joke about it, and you joke with the waiter(s) and the owner. Moreover, you know everyone’s names, including those of other regulars. If the last bit applies to you, and you are in a bar, you should maybe reconsider going there every night. But all in all, money is no longer the problem, though you have a diminishing supply, because you have figured out how to order the good stuff (food and drinks) without paying too much; probably, your local friends had some good advice to share on this account. The owner of the place has also started doing unheard-of things, like putting down a bottle on your table instead of charging you all for individual drinks, or he has begun to serve your clique of (mostly) foreign regulars complimentary cups of espresso on the occasional long evening.
You don’t want to leave. But it’s time to go home. And when you’ve gone, you’ll understand that you were not the only one going through adjustments, and to an even greater extent, you were not alone in the process - these are two different things. The friends you made in this place are as much changed by knowing you as you were by knowing them. The owner and the staff of whatever place you had frequented were observing you, and may even remember you for a long time thereafter, as the foreigner(s) who stuck. They admire you now, and they’ll miss you too, even though no letters, e-mails, or phone calls will be exchanged between you. But on your last night, a round of drinks was on the house, or the shawarma sandwiches or steak with fries were especially well-made, and you got a free treat (of a varying nature) from your local friends that caused a melting sensation in your chest. You don’t even know how “home” could measure up to the high standards set by this new yet familiar culture, community, and lifestyle. What you missed seems not so vital anymore, and return can be delayed by another couple of months. But really, it’s time to go home. And though leaving is never opportune enough, it should happen when intended, otherwise you’re just putting off a whole new wave of (reverse) culture shock and re-adjustment and possibly souring your near-perfect memory of this adventure abroad.
February 28, 2010
Going Native, Part I
Hello!
Today, finally some time to blog, because school has been cancelled. It’s a rain day! I never thought I’d live to hear these words, especially given the circumstances: it rained for no more than half an hour (albeit with some sizable hail) and now the sky is turning blue again and the weather seems beautiful. It is almost a pity we have to miss out on school and do the catching up later on when it is so nice out.
The students have just returned from a trip to Salala, and we are all thoroughly exhausted, some of us even sun-burnt. The heat is starting to manifest itself, and I personally am enjoying daily nosebleeds as a result of high BP and heat. To be fair, nobody is complaining yet, though it is tangibly warmer outside, and during group hikes, the girls are having a hard time, always dripping in sweat. The hijab and the abaya are almost a must in most situations and even on excursions, especially anywhere in the south and the interior, or off the beaten tourist track. It is tiring and unpleasant to walk in them due to their impermeability: they let in no air and let out no moisture or heat. Additionally, abayas are too long and always black, so you can imagine the heat that girls have to put up with when out in the open. The hijabs are never light enough, no matter how thin the fabric is and how much it ‘breathes’.
Yet there are advantages: because the hijab covers the neck and hair, the head is never warmed by the sun’s rays, and the headscarf absorbs the sweat on the neck. In short, there is little to worry about, in terms of over-heating or dehydration due to loss of moisture. Although drinking lots of water is still highly recommended. And the abaya lets you relax and just be you (whenever you’re not tripping on it). You can sit in it in a myriad of ways, and do just about anything, short of swimming. The garment is not see-through and you can wear almost anything (or nothing) underneath. But believe me, you would want to have short sleeves and long pants (or loose maxis) under the abaya. When you walk up/down stairs and have to lift it up, it is just rude to flash everyone with your bare ankles and calves. Additionally, having sleeves helps absorb sweat in the underarms, which, if it comes in contact with the abaya, will stain it and feel genuinely disgusting. That having been said, I still envy the [appropriately dressed] Western tourists, from time to time. Their cool cotton blouses and shorts make me reflect on why I am baking in destruction-proof, solid black abaya fabric with a massive headscarf around my head and shoulders. And then I remember: immersion. Knowing how they feel, how they think, what it is they care about, and what makes them tick. And when I say ‘they’, I am not designating ‘the Other’, but simply generalizing about a large population that is too diverse to blog about its differences. But maybe I will some day, after another month or so of walking in their clothes.
February 08, 2010
First Days in Oman
Hello!
Finally made it to the Sultanate of Oman (by way of Abu Dhabi airport). Thank you Etihad, for a wonderful transatlantic flight! I must say, Etihad airways has so far been the best way to fly across the pond.
Here’s why: from the moment of booking and re-scheduling my departure ticket online, this airline was customer-friendly and accessible. First of all, I’d like to make a few remarks on accessibility. Customer Service was speedy and reliable, and they actually made the effort to reach me and double-check everything with me after I re-scheduled my booking. Etihad maintains a very user-friendly, easy-to-navigate website and are very considerate, offering about 7 or more meal options for picky passengers.
This is just before departure. This is a fairly new airline, in existence for only 5 years or so, therefore their carriers are also in good condition: the seats were very wide, everything was very clean and up-to-date technologically. The best movie selection, hands down... and even a variety of news channels was offered. The flight crew was very nice, and most importantly, efficient and truly international
Customs was rather interesting, as I had to purchase a visa upon entry to Oman, and to do it I needed Omani Rials (pegged to the US dollar, OR 1 = USD2.7) but at the visa register, the customs officials asked my classmate and me whether we had ‘Arab friends’. Ahem. Tastaqbaloon ila ‘oman! : )
The first few days in the capital city were really exciting, with sightseeing, 5:30 am prayer wake-up calls from the adjacent mosque, bartering in the aromatic and excitingly cheap souk, and night walks along the bay in Muscat’s much-photographed tourist district. I think what I will miss the most is the 18 % ‘sacs’ in our morning orange Rani; it was a great breakfast conversation starter. I will write more about the Grand Mosque, the museums, the Sultan Qaboos University, the Fish Market, the Muttrah Souk and the Quornish later on, once I have all the relevant photos sorted out. Let me just say that this city is fascinating and much more multidimensional than even Lonely Planet would have you believe...Although I can’t slight Lonely Planet, they have never ceased to provide priceless information tips to all of their readers.
French Soups on Hold
Hello! I apologize (to anyone reading this) for the lack of French soup recipes lately. I have been preparing for a departure to a Gulf country on a study abroad program and tying up loose ends from last semester...this left me with little time to cook new meals. Unfortunately, I will not be continuing my French cuisine adventures while abroad for a few reasons: firstly, there is a general shortage of basic ingredients, such as leeks, common to many French soups; secondly, jet lag has gotten the better of me, and when it will fade away, classes will settle in, full force; thirdly - and most importantly - I have no access to a kitchen, unless my host family will let me use theirs, in which case the previously given reasons would still limit my ability to prepare a dish.
However, I did cook a soup that has not made it to the blog in the month preceding my departure. It will be up as soon as I am back in New York. Bon Appetit (this time, eating your own creation)!
January 13, 2010
15 Days
January 08, 2010
Creme Bretonne
January 05, 2010
Crème de Chou-fleur
Here is a second easy soup - easier than the first - that has a preparation time of 20 minutes and should serve about 4 people. Again, these are French portions, so don't take it literally.
Cream of Cauliflower
1 cauliflower
1 onion
1 potato (note: better to choose a large potato)
1 cube of chicken soup
1 egg yolk
30g of butter
20cl of sour cream (note: 20cl = 200ml)
1 coffee spoon of chervil
1 coffee spoon of parsley
nutmeg
salt, pepper
- Peel off the green leaves of the cauliflower before cutting it in small bouquets (I'm guessing, pieces no larger than 1 inch).
- Put 1.5L of lightly salted water to boil.
- During this time, peel and mince the onion and the potato.
- Throw the cauliflower into the boiling water, with the cube of chicken soup, the potato and the onion.
- Cover and let cook (boiling) for 15 minutes.
- Reduce the mix to a puree.
- Pepper, add nutmeg and sprinkle with some thin strips of butter.
- Mix the sour cream and the egg yolk.
- Out of the heat, incorporate the sour cream-yolk mix into the puree.
- Adjust the seasoning, if necessary.
- At the moment of serving, sprinkle (moderately) the chervil and the parsley, finely chiseled.
Also, if you have croutons, you should throw them into a hot bowl of this soup and make it so much more delicious. If you have no croutons, you will have to cook a bit more to avoid eating a plain soup. Essentially, all you need is wheat bread cut into small triangles, which you would fry in a pan, soaking in hot olive oil, until they turn golden brown (or darker, if you like). No worries, olive oil is healthy enough that this extravagant crouton preparation shouldn't leave a cholesterol trace!
P.S. Can a historical note be left out? Of course not! This soup used to be called "Crème de Barry", after the Countess of Barry, a favorite of Louis XV. And she ate it exactly as described above, with the croutons fried in hot olive oil. I think that she had good taste... in food : )
January 04, 2010
Procrastination
January 01, 2010
Soupe Paysanne Au Lard
- peel potatoes and cut them in big cubes
- wash leeks and cut in thin straps (round slices)
- cut the raw bacon into little cubes
- peel and mince the onions
- in a cooking pot, melt a small knob of butter
- add the onions, the potatoes, the fine herbs, the garnished bouquet and the cube of chicken soup
- wet (i.e. cover) with 1 Liter of water and let cook for 20 minutes
- in a frying pan, let brown the bacon strips with the rest of the butter
- add the leeks and let cook for 10 minutes (with lid)
- blend the soup after having removed the garnished bouquet (note: 'blend' means 'stir well')
- incorporate the leeks and the bacon
- salt and pepper to taste; serve very hot (note: this is said to serve 4 people, but 3 can effortlessly consume the contents of the casserole)
- The 'lard' spoken of here is sold in cubes in French stores, whereas on the US you will probably find bacon strips that recquire slightly different preparation; this is a minor detail, and it will not derail your cooking process.
- 1 cube of chicken soup is about 1 1/2 tsp of chicken soup powder.
- Fine herbs are a personal touch. I added a few pinches of vegetable Vegetta (there is a chicken Vegetta seasoning too), I guess the same as a teaspoon.
- The garnished bouquet normally includes parsley, thyme and bay leaf. It should be tied with a colorless string, or can be wrapped into a sort of gauze - less messy and easier to remove). It can be enriched by adding basil, burnet, chervil, rosemary, peppercorns, savory and/or tarragon. As I discovered, not all of these seasonings are readily available in American stores (but then again, I live far from Tesco, Walmart, Shoprite, Hanaford, etc.). What to do? I added quite a bit of oregano instead - and I did have tarragon and basil. I also bought Italian seasoning (which included savory and rosemary); that was also thrown into the mix. The bouquet smelled great, and that's what's matters!
Bon Appetit!