February 28, 2010

Going Native, Part I

Hello!

Today, finally some time to blog, because school has been cancelled. It’s a rain day! I never thought I’d live to hear these words, especially given the circumstances: it rained for no more than half an hour (albeit with some sizable hail) and now the sky is turning blue again and the weather seems beautiful. It is almost a pity we have to miss out on school and do the catching up later on when it is so nice out.

The students have just returned from a trip to Salala, and we are all thoroughly exhausted, some of us even sun-burnt. The heat is starting to manifest itself, and I personally am enjoying daily nosebleeds as a result of high BP and heat. To be fair, nobody is complaining yet, though it is tangibly warmer outside, and during group hikes, the girls are having a hard time, always dripping in sweat. The hijab and the abaya are almost a must in most situations and even on excursions, especially anywhere in the south and the interior, or off the beaten tourist track. It is tiring and unpleasant to walk in them due to their impermeability: they let in no air and let out no moisture or heat. Additionally, abayas are too long and always black, so you can imagine the heat that girls have to put up with when out in the open. The hijabs are never light enough, no matter how thin the fabric is and how much it ‘breathes’.

Yet there are advantages: because the hijab covers the neck and hair, the head is never warmed by the sun’s rays, and the headscarf absorbs the sweat on the neck. In short, there is little to worry about, in terms of over-heating or dehydration due to loss of moisture. Although drinking lots of water is still highly recommended. And the abaya lets you relax and just be you (whenever you’re not tripping on it). You can sit in it in a myriad of ways, and do just about anything, short of swimming. The garment is not see-through and you can wear almost anything (or nothing) underneath. But believe me, you would want to have short sleeves and long pants (or loose maxis) under the abaya. When you walk up/down stairs and have to lift it up, it is just rude to flash everyone with your bare ankles and calves. Additionally, having sleeves helps absorb sweat in the underarms, which, if it comes in contact with the abaya, will stain it and feel genuinely disgusting. That having been said, I still envy the [appropriately dressed] Western tourists, from time to time. Their cool cotton blouses and shorts make me reflect on why I am baking in destruction-proof, solid black abaya fabric with a massive headscarf around my head and shoulders. And then I remember: immersion. Knowing how they feel, how they think, what it is they care about, and what makes them tick. And when I say ‘they’, I am not designating ‘the Other’, but simply generalizing about a large population that is too diverse to blog about its differences. But maybe I will some day, after another month or so of walking in their clothes.

February 08, 2010

First Days in Oman

Hello!

Finally made it to the Sultanate of Oman (by way of Abu Dhabi airport). Thank you Etihad, for a wonderful transatlantic flight! I must say, Etihad airways has so far been the best way to fly across the pond.

Here’s why: from the moment of booking and re-scheduling my departure ticket online, this airline was customer-friendly and accessible. First of all, I’d like to make a few remarks on accessibility. Customer Service was speedy and reliable, and they actually made the effort to reach me and double-check everything with me after I re-scheduled my booking. Etihad maintains a very user-friendly, easy-to-navigate website and are very considerate, offering about 7 or more meal options for picky passengers.

This is just before departure. This is a fairly new airline, in existence for only 5 years or so, therefore their carriers are also in good condition: the seats were very wide, everything was very clean and up-to-date technologically. The best movie selection, hands down... and even a variety of news channels was offered. The flight crew was very nice, and most importantly, efficient and truly international

Customs was rather interesting, as I had to purchase a visa upon entry to Oman, and to do it I needed Omani Rials (pegged to the US dollar, OR 1 = USD2.7) but at the visa register, the customs officials asked my classmate and me whether we had ‘Arab friends’. Ahem. Tastaqbaloon ila ‘oman! : )

The first few days in the capital city were really exciting, with sightseeing, 5:30 am prayer wake-up calls from the adjacent mosque, bartering in the aromatic and excitingly cheap souk, and night walks along the bay in Muscat’s much-photographed tourist district. I think what I will miss the most is the 18 % ‘sacs’ in our morning orange Rani; it was a great breakfast conversation starter. I will write more about the Grand Mosque, the museums, the Sultan Qaboos University, the Fish Market, the Muttrah Souk and the Quornish later on, once I have all the relevant photos sorted out. Let me just say that this city is fascinating and much more multidimensional than even Lonely Planet would have you believe...Although I can’t slight Lonely Planet, they have never ceased to provide priceless information tips to all of their readers.


French Soups on Hold

Hello! I apologize (to anyone reading this) for the lack of French soup recipes lately. I have been preparing for a departure to a Gulf country on a study abroad program and tying up loose ends from last semester...this left me with little time to cook new meals. Unfortunately, I will not be continuing my French cuisine adventures while abroad for a few reasons: firstly, there is a general shortage of basic ingredients, such as leeks, common to many French soups; secondly, jet lag has gotten the better of me, and when it will fade away, classes will settle in, full force; thirdly - and most importantly - I have no access to a kitchen, unless my host family will let me use theirs, in which case the previously given reasons would still limit my ability to prepare a dish.

However, I did cook a soup that has not made it to the blog in the month preceding my departure. It will be up as soon as I am back in New York. Bon Appetit (this time, eating your own creation)!